This blog is an archive of DKW related articles, manuals, brochures and posts. It also covers East German successor marques, such as IFA, AWZ, Wartburg, Sachsenring, MZ and IWL.
Wednesday 13 November 2019
DKW starting procedure
DKW cars are powered by a two or three cylinder engine and, while generally extremely reliable, if the car has been sitting unused for a little while, you may find that the car is difficult to start. This is primarily caused by the fuel running back down the line towards the fuel tank, leaving the carburetor dry. This can happen because the valves in the fuel line become worn or perished over time. The car's fuel pump is generally a weak point as it relies on the vacuum in the crankcase to suck petrol from the tank to the carburetor. Fuel pump membranes also wear out over time reducing the pump's 'sucking power.' Once the petrol is flowing however, even a weak pump is usually good enough.
Apart from replacing worn membranes in the fuel pump and ensuring that the one way valves in the fuel line are functional, if you have consistent problems with starting and fuel starvation on hilly drives, you may want to consider fitting an electric fuel pump, such as this example: https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/products/6-volt-Electric-Fuel-Pump-suits-Vintage-Classic-Cars-Quiet-Universal-4-5psi-/ZPN-01668 I'm not recommending this, but it is an option worth consideration.
I personally have not opted for this solution, but have installed a universal primer bulb between the fuel pump and the carburetor, like this: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6mm-Universal-Car-Motorcycle-Boat-Rubber-Hand-Primer-Bulb-Type-Fuel-Diesel-Pump/254328169334?hash=item3b3723e376:g:nL4AAOSwt~FdUPJR
After a couple of weeks or months of inactivity I find that the fuel line will be dry and it will take a lot of cranking to get the fuel to the carburetor. The squeeze bulb allows me the manually pump fuel through the lines to 'give it a helping hand.' Then it is a matter of pulling out the choke half way and firing the ignition. I find that the car starts easier in these situations with the air filter off. These were the instructions that the car's original owner, Marcello, left me and I have found they work fine.
If that does not work, you can add about 20-25 mil of petroil into the carburetor mouth and see if that gets it going. However, if you've got a squeezy bulb as described above, you're already doing this. This would only apply if you couldn't manually pump petroil into the carb.
However, if you do get the fuel flowing but she still won't fire, you could have oiled the spark plugs, Try pulling out the plugs and replacing with fresh plugs, or wipe down the plugs to remove the oil. This should help.
But, in extremis you can turn to your trusty friend - Nulon "start ya b*stard!" or similar starting fluid. Nulon starting fluid ignites easier than petrol and once the engines kicks into life, everything is good. https://www.nulon.com.au/products/aerosols/start-ya-bastard-instant-engine-starter Please note though that starting fluid not good for the engine, especially if used for extended periods. DKW engines require oil in the petrol mixture and starting fluid has none, which means that the engine at the moment of ignition is not getting sufficient lubrication. Continued cranking for a long time while using starting fluid is not a good sign indicating that the engine probably has more significant problems.
Hope this short video helps you out. Remember, the best way to keep your Deek in good shape is to DRIVE it!
Disclaimer - these suggestions apply only to an engine that is already running, but that may not have been run in a couple of months. It's not a plan of action for getting a mothballed engine running. If you're trying to get an old engine running again, it's best to start from basic principles and pull it apart if there is any doubt.
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