Thursday, 14 November 2019

DKW Exhaust Performance


DKW two-stroke motors require a finely tuned exhaust to provide optimal performance. The prewar F7 and F8 exhaust system was basically a straight through pipe, after making a 90 degree turn out of the engine. The company's engineers invested a lot of effort in designing the F9 exhaust system in 1939, consulting with two specialist exhaust tuning companies. In the postwar period, the exhaust system of the F89P Meisterklasse, which was powered by the same twin cylinder engine as the prewar cars went through several changes which progressively improved engine performance. After making the 90 degree turn out of the engine, the exhaust passed through a large dead-ended cylinder which bounced the pressure wave back towards the engine, before passing through another long straight pipe to the back of the car. An expansion chamber was later added under the driver's seat and later an expanded silencer at the end of the exhaust pipe.

The F93 exhaust system expanded and improved on the F89P's system. After leaving the manifold, the exhaust turns though a 45 degree expansion chamber, before moving on to a second, larger expansion chamber mounted under the driver's seat. Alarge, specially designed silencer was mounted at the rear.

Shortly after I purchased the car in 2012 I noticed the rear silencer was looking pretty shabby. Rot holes were beginning to appear in the silencer and it was weighed down with a built up carbon and oil.


When searching for a suitable replacement, some fellow DKW owners recommended a sports exhaust manufactured in South Africa. The exhaust was said to provide an increase in speed and performance.

The sports exhaust was basically a straight through pipe. Once I had it fitted I observed that it provided excellent performance for freeway driving, giving an uplift of about an extra 5 miles an hour. However, this came at a considerable cost. Most of my driving is done on suburban streets at around 40 to 50 miles an hour and it really wasn't suited to that power band. The engine ran really rough at a lower speeds and, most importantly, the un-dampened exhaust note was quite deafening!
Even at idle the sports exhaust was really noisy.

After a few weeks of driving I had the sports exhaust removed and replaced with it a modern exhaust. This substantially reduced the exhaust noise and generally performed okay, but the engine and exhaust continued to vibrate a lot and performance at speed dropped from a comfortable maximum speed of 75 miles per hour to around 65 miles per hour. It was time to go back to an original style exhaust.

After these two unsuccessful trials, I decided to obtain an original silencer. I eventually obtained a NOS exhaust from Germany from Ralf Muller (info.ralf.mueller@t-online.de), who has a great stock of original spare parts for most DKW models. Gary from Custom Exhaust Specialists in Osborne Park fitted the exhaust (http://customexhaustspecialists.weebly.com/). The difference in performance between a clean, original exhaust, with the modern and sports exhaust was amazing. The exhaust note is extremely quiet again, top maximum speed has been returned and the vibration and rattling in the exhaust system has stopped.


Original rear silencers are expensive and hard to find, but they are worth the investment. Reproduction exhaust systems can be purchased from DKW Klose https://dkw-klose.de/Abgasanlagen/

Similarly, I also tested a modern air-intake filter and noticed similar performance challenges. It did increase the airflow and gave the engine a lot more get up and go, but the loss of the steel dampener around the intake resulted in an unacceptable increase in engine noise. If I were rallying the car, it would be an option but not for general driving.


The engineers at DKW really knew what they were doing.

Wednesday, 13 November 2019

DKW starting procedure


DKW cars are powered by a two or three cylinder engine and, while generally extremely reliable, if the car has been sitting unused for a little while, you may find that the car is difficult to start. This is primarily caused by the fuel running back down the line towards the fuel tank, leaving the carburetor dry. This can happen because the valves in the fuel line become worn or perished over time. The car's fuel pump is generally a weak point as it relies on the vacuum in the crankcase to suck petrol from the tank to the carburetor. Fuel pump membranes also wear out over time reducing the pump's 'sucking power.' Once the petrol is flowing however, even a weak pump is usually good enough.

Apart from replacing worn membranes in the fuel pump and ensuring that the one way valves in the fuel line are functional, if you have consistent problems with starting and fuel starvation on hilly drives, you may want to consider fitting an electric fuel pump, such as this example: https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/products/6-volt-Electric-Fuel-Pump-suits-Vintage-Classic-Cars-Quiet-Universal-4-5psi-/ZPN-01668 I'm not recommending this, but it is an option worth consideration.

I personally have not opted for this solution, but have installed a universal primer bulb between the fuel pump and the carburetor, like this: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6mm-Universal-Car-Motorcycle-Boat-Rubber-Hand-Primer-Bulb-Type-Fuel-Diesel-Pump/254328169334?hash=item3b3723e376:g:nL4AAOSwt~FdUPJR

After a couple of weeks or months of inactivity I find that the fuel line will be dry and it will take a lot of cranking to get the fuel to the carburetor. The squeeze bulb allows me the manually pump fuel through the lines to 'give it a helping hand.' Then it is a matter of pulling out the choke half way and firing the ignition. I find that the car starts easier in these situations with the air filter off. These were the instructions that the car's original owner, Marcello, left me and I have found they work fine.

If that does not work, you can add about 20-25 mil of petroil into the carburetor mouth and see if that gets it going. However, if you've got a squeezy bulb as described above, you're already doing this. This would only apply if you couldn't manually pump petroil into the carb.

However, if you do get the fuel flowing but she still won't fire, you could have oiled the spark plugs,  Try pulling out the plugs and replacing with fresh plugs, or wipe down the plugs to remove the oil. This should help. 

But, in extremis you can turn to your trusty friend - Nulon "start ya b*stard!" or similar starting fluid.  Nulon starting fluid ignites easier than petrol and once the engines kicks into life, everything is good. https://www.nulon.com.au/products/aerosols/start-ya-bastard-instant-engine-starter Please note though that starting fluid not good for the engine, especially if used for extended periods. DKW engines require oil in the petrol mixture and starting fluid has none, which means that the engine at the moment of ignition is not getting sufficient lubrication. Continued cranking for a long time while using starting fluid is not a good sign indicating that the engine probably has more significant problems.

Hope this short video helps you out. Remember, the best way to keep your Deek in good shape is to DRIVE it!

Disclaimer - these suggestions apply only to an engine that is already running, but that may not have been run in a couple of months. It's not a plan of action for getting a mothballed engine running. If you're trying to get an old engine running again, it's best to start from basic principles and pull it apart if there is any doubt.


Sunday, 3 November 2019

DKW Auto-Union Spares and Services


Here is a list of links to DKW and IFA spare parts suppliers and repairers:
  1. Arne Guildernstein of Mobilitaeten in Germany have a very extensive selection of parts for a wide range of DKW vehicles. He also provides servicing and restoration services.  http://www.mobilitaeten.de/
  2. DKW Hesse provides parts for later models from F89 onwards. http://www.dkwhesse.de/
  3. DKW Klose provides a lot of parts for earlier models, such as the F5 and F7, including fully rebuilt and reconditioned engines. http://www.dkwklose.de/
  4. Ralf Muller in Germany has a lot of parts available for most post-war DKWs. His email is info.ralf.mueller@t-online.de
  5. DKW Auto is a Dutch based repairer, restorer and supplier http://www.dkwauto.nl/index.html
  6. Kurt Soezen is a UK based parts source with a substantial stock of NOS and re-manufactured DKW parts.  His e-mail is k.soezen@btinternet.com  
  7. Auto Tiele S Baller provides parts and services for IFAs, Barkas and some cross over DKW cars. http://www.autoteile-baller.de/start.htm
  8. Framo-Jens supplies Framo, IFA and early DKW parts. http://www.framo-jens.de/index.php?menu=1
  9. Michael Zimmermann supplies IFA F8 and F9 parts. http://www.micha-zimmermann.com/
  10. Medidenta Schramm in Germany supplies a range of parts, especially brakes, electrical parts and accessories. http://www.medidentaschramm.de/index.php
  11. Henri Scholtke sells replacement parts for DKW and IFA vehicles and provides engine repairs, crankshaft machining, cylinder machining, dashboard instrument refurbishments, etc. henri_tmp@gmx.de
  12. Ostmobile-Shop sells DKW and IFA parts. http://www.ostmobile-shop.de/epages/61489198.sf/en_GB/?ViewObjectID=730831
  13. Ost2rad sells IWL, MZ and Simson motorcycle parts. https://www.ost2rad.com/
  14. Oldtimerwelt Dresden sells vehicles and parts https://www.oldtimerwelt-dresden.de/
  15. Old Car Garage manufactures and sells exhaust systems for IFA and DKW cars, along with providing other mechanical and restoration services. http://old-car-ranch.de/
  16. Retro Garage Dessau sells parts for Wartburgs, IFA and Trabants. https://www.retro-garage-dessau.de
  17. Doepper-Profile supplies rubber and upholstery parts. http://www.doepper-profile.de/
  18. Audi Tradition no longer sell DKW parts online. Some early Audi parts are still available. https://shops.audi.com/de_DE/web/tradition/ersatzteile
  19. Austrian DKW-Club has some spares: www.DKW-Club.at
  20. Greiner Oldtimerteile supply DKW motorcycle spares https://www.greiner-oldtimerteile.de/ 
  21. This website lists a number of German vendors and restorers. http://www.oldtimer-selbstrestaurieren.de/index.php?menuid=64  
  22. Sausewind Shop sells MZ, Simson and other East German parts: https://www.sausewind-shop.com/
  23. Powerdynamo - electronic ignition systems for DKWs, IFAs, MZs, IWLs and a variety of motorcycles. Excellent service! http://www.powerdynamo.biz/deu/systems/7180/7180main.htm
  24. Dekabras - a Brazilian NOS spare parts and parts re=manufacturer.  They produce tuning products, including disc brake kits - http://www.dekabras.com.br/inicio.php 
  25. DKW Pecas - another Brazilian DKW-Vemag parts and service provider - http://www.dkwpecas.com.br/
  26. Jorge Caviglia in Argentina is a source for parts.  His email is bue917@yahoo.com.ar
  27. Bernardo Konge in Uruguay is a source of parts.  His email is DKW@adinet.com.uy
  28. eBay Kleinanzeigen (small market) is a good source for parts https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-dkw/k0 
  29. And of course, you can always search on German eBay https://www.ebay.de
South African businesses

Shawn Spaan

The DKW Store

DKW Workshop (Ivan Meester)


Older service providers are dropping out of the business as they retire lately, but there are new vendors coming onto the scene. If you know any other suppliers and repairers, feel free to drop me a line.