My First Car - Framo Piccolo

I have paraphrased this from a German article in www.ruhrnachrichten.de by author, Arne Niehörster, about people's first car stories. This story comes from East Germany in the 1950s, when cars were expensive and hard to come by. Young Joachim Stückrad of Husen, near Dresden, was fortunate enough to get his hands on an old Framo Piccolo, which he and his friends enjoyed (and ultimately destroyed) during the late 50s.

Heavenly journey! Joachim and his friends on the way to the Ore Mountains. The fifth in the group rode his bike and arrived there first.

"We have never had much luck," Joachim Stückrad said to his family after the first test drive of his Framo Piccolo (built in 1938) in Dresden in 1955. But he hoped that this would change with the purchase of this car. And indeed, for the graduate engineer from Husen his dream came true for only 2000 Ostmark. Stückrad remembers rapturously: “The car was beautiful in appearance, with its edged hood, which did not even open. Inside there was also nothing except the steering column. Looking towards the back there were air vents over the engine cover. Under the engine cover you could see straight through to the road”

"The engine was sitting under a small hump in the rear seat" explained Stückrad. A 300 cubic centimeter DKW two-stroke engine delivered a mighty seven horsepower. The best part was the starter - because it did not exist - at least not when Stückrad owned it. "The previous owner has lost the starter, however a kickstarter was externally mounted beside the driver's door." If the car stalled at an intersection when driving solo there was nothing for it but to jump out and work up a bit of sweat. But when driving with his girlfriend, it was “no problem. My sweetheart hopped out, took a couple of kicks on the kickstarter and off we went on our merry way."

The Framo’s light weight presented unusual problems. "Once, we drove the Framo to a student party and some pranksters carried it up the stairs to the cafeteria," Stückrad recalls. Plop plop-plop - he drove it down the stairs again.

Vacations, however, were mostly one way journeys. "We often had to resort to other means of transport to get home." On a trip to the Saale dam, with a tent and folding boat, on a rise of almost five degrees the Framo slowed to walking pace. First his girlfriend had to get out, then the speed picked up a little.  Eventually even Stückrad had to hit the road, jogging along as the car chugged away at full throttle, controlling the throttle through the open window. "Half pushed by me, she managed to reach the bottom of the mountain," says Stückrad, Next they went on to the steep, hard slopes of the Wilsdruffer mountain. This proved to be the last trip for the Framo, due to piston seizure.

http://www.ruhrnachrichten.de/44319-Husen~/Serie-Mein-erstes-Auto-Der-Framo-Piccolo-auf-wilder-Fahrt;art2576,320803

The Framo Piccolo - https://dkwautounionproject.blogspot.com/2019/10/framo-piccolo-germanys-cheapest-car-1934.html

1936 Framo Leiferwagen Prospectus

Jorge Rasmussen's Framo-Werkes had made its name manufacturing cheap tricycle delivery wagons. Following Rasmussen's sacking from Auto-Union in 1934, he turned his focus to Framo and initiated a series of budget car projects. These ultimately proved to be unsuccessful. Framo's tricycles were updated and a new series of four wheeled commercial vehicles were introduced. The four wheeled range was powered by a 500cc two cylinder DKW two-stroke engine, built under license. Framo offered a small sedan based on the same platform as their light truck. Few were sold however and in 1936, as part of the Schell rationalization program, Framo was instructed to cease all tricycle and personal vehicle production and were licensed only to produce their light truck.

1935 Framo LGT 500

https://f-r-a-m-o.de/

1935 Framo Piccolo Brochure

"For years, Framo has been a pioneer in the field of small car construction, creating a practical vehicle for the widest range of people.

The Framo Piccolo in its latest form and sophisticated design is the result of intensive development work. Check out its excellent driving characteristics and note: the low running costs the low price the easy maintenance and then: no license required!

You don't need a license for this sleek and practical convertible limousine - the Framo Piccolo with 200ccm DKW engine does not require a license!

Just looking at the pictures, you'll definitely say "a pretty little car!" But when you see it in real life, you'll have to admit: it really is a sleek, cleanly built little vehicle! And when you've taken a test drive, you'll underline everything we've mentioned about its advantages here.

Comfortable seats - for 2 adults and 2 children. Smooth, vibration-free driving with excellent suspension, solid road-holding and safe driving even on country roads. Extremely simple operation and maintenance. Easy access to the engine and all drive components.

The Piccolo is not grand, so you can't expect exactly the same from this small car as from a large, powerful and more expensive car. But what it does for its size is amazing, and what it offers for its price is extraordinary. The Framo Piccolo is cheaper than a good motorcycle with a sidecar. In the Framo Piccolo you ride more protected and more comfortably, and therefore healthier, than on a motorcycle. In the Framo Piccolo you don't need expensive clothing like on a motorcycle. A real small, comfortable, elegant and modern convertible limousine, a reliable, time-saving, practical means of transport for the PRICE of RM 1295.- ex works, with five tires, indicators, windshield wipers and floor mats. [Also] with a 300 cc engine, approx. 9 HP (driver's license III) without a price surcharge.

Points worth noting

• DKW block engine with power-enhancing and fuel-saving reverse spooling.
• Swing axles in front, new swing frame at the rear.
• Four-wheel brake, each wheel individually adjustable.
• The seats are attached to the central swing point of the vehicle."

Review of Framo Piccolo in 1934 Motor und Sport: https://dkwautounionproject.blogspot.com/2019/10/framo-piccolo-motor-und-sport-2.html

1935 Framo Leiferwagen Prospectus

1934 Framo Piccolo Owners Manual (English translation)

It's extremely doubtful there are Framo Piccolo owners out there who require an English language version of this rare car's operating manual. The Piccolo was sold in small numbers in Germany for approximately two years, from 1934 to 1936 and enjoyed no export market. Developed to exploit a tiny niche market for a cheap car that had been artificially created in Germany through tax and licensing discounts, the Piccolo was only marginally viable as an automobile. It was powered by either a 200cc or 300cc DKW stationary motor, mounted in the rear and driving the rear wheels via a chain transmission. Like contemporary DKW cars, it had a lightweight plywood body with leatherette for waterproofing. Unveiled at the 1934 Berlin Motor Show along with similar vehicles, such as the Standard Superior. The Piccolo was the cheapest German car at the show at only 1295 RM. Reviews in the motoring press followed, but it could only be acknowledged that such a cheap and under-powered car was of only limited utility and it may be better for customers to buy a motorcycle and save up for a better 'real' car. Nevertheless, the car found some customers with several hundred being sold over two years.

The example of the Framo Piccolo and Standard Superior demonstrated that a people's car would need to be a 'true' car. That car would be the KDF Volkswagen.

The following translation sets the expectations for the Framo Piccolo owner and explains its limitations.

"THE MOST IMPORTANT thing that every driver must pay attention to!
1. Air pressure in the front 1.5 atm.
2. Air pressure in the rear 1.75 atm., fully loaded 2 atm.
3. The car must be easy to push by hand with the brakes released and the gear lever in neutral.
4. Check that the wheel fastening nuts are tightened regularly.
5. Fit the spare wheel and let it run frequently, otherwise the rubber will age too quickly.
6. The clutch pedal must have about 20 mm of dead space (measured at the pedal).
7. Have worn brakes relined immediately.
8. Check that the headlights are positioned correctly and that the dimmer is working properly.
9. Mixing ratio: up to 1500 km 1:15 and afterwards 1:18.
10. Drive the way you would like to be seen by other drivers.

I: To be observed before starting the vehicle.

1. Fuel:
We recommend Shell petrol for operation.

2. Oil:
For lubrication, use Shell 4X or Aero-Shell. Shell-Voltol and greased oils as well as castor oil are unsuitable for mixed lubrication.

3. Mixing fuel and oil:
During the running-in period, which is approx. 1500 km, use 1:15, i.e., 15 litres of fuel to 1 litre of oil and afterwards use 1:18, i.e., 18 litres of fuel to 1 litre of oil. When mixing, use clean containers.

If for some reason you are forced to use other oils, contact the engine manufacturer, Auto.-Union A.-G. Werk DKW, Zschopau, Sa., beforehand.

During the running-in period, we recommend using AUTO-KOLLAG as an additive, at 5 cc per tank, and never more.

4. Lubrication of the vehicle:
See the below lubrication diagram.


5. Filling the battery:
If there is an uncharged battery in the vehicle, it must first be filled with battery acid of 28° B = 1.24 specific gravity. 7 hours after filling, charging can begin using an external power source. Make sure that the battery is correctly connected to the cable. The first charge should be carried out with a charging current of 4 amps for 24 to 30 hours. Overcharging should be avoided. It is very advisable to half discharge the battery and then charge it again using an external power source. The acid loss should be replenished to ensure the acid is 10 mm above the plates.

The battery should then be installed correctly, connecting the + pole first and making sure that the poles have good contact, which should be kept free of oxide by greasing with acid-free Vaseline and that it is completely solid. When the battery is charged, the acid level should be checked every 4 weeks; if the level is too high, drain the liquid, and if it is too low, top up with distilled water. The battery connections should be greased from time to time. Above all, the battery should always be kept clean.

6. Checking the electrical system:
To check the lighting system, insert the ignition key into the light switch and turn it to the right. The red indicator light on the dashboard should light up. If the switch lever is set to "Park", the small parking lights on the front headlights and the rear light should light up. If the switch is set to "Matt", the secondary filaments of the Bilux bulb and the rear light should light up. When set to "Bright", the main filaments of the Bilux bulbs and the tail light must light up.

Additional lighting devices such as fog lights, viewfinders, etc. must be connected to the main bulbs' switch circuit.

7. Correct tire pressure:
The best air pressure for the tires used is 1.5 atmospheres on the front wheels, 1.75 atm on the rear wheel with two people on the vehicle, and 2 atmospheres under full load.

8. Checking the brakes and pedals:
Before starting the vehicle, the clutch, brake and accelerator pedals must be depressed and checked to see if they work. The handbrake lever must also be checked for operation.

9. Speed limit:
With a new vehicle, the engine, gearbox and power transmission parts must first be run in. It is therefore in your interest to follow our instructions, which we give based on years of experience. During the running-in period, i.e., the first 1500 km, do not drive faster than 12 km per hour in 1st gear, 25 km per hour in 2nd gear, or 45 km per hour in 3rd gear. Driving too slowly in 3rd gear, i.e., less than 25 km, should also be avoided.

II. Note when putting the vehicle into operation. (Practical tips for driving.)
1. Fill with fuel; do not remove the strainer.
2. Set the fuel tap to "Open".
3. Check that the gear lever is in the idle / neutral position (marking L).
4. Insert the ignition key into the ignition switch; the red indicator lamp lights up to show that the battery connection to the ignition coil has been established.
5. Do not operate the starter for too long without interruption; just press it down briefly and then release it again.
6. Changing gears: After the engine has started, the clutch (left foot pedal) is fully depressed and the gear lever is pushed to the right out of the neutral notch marked L, pulled back and let it snap into the next notch marked I. Do not use excessive force! Release the clutch slowly, not jerkily, and accelerate a little until the vehicle starts moving. Then release the foot throttle, fully depress the clutch again and switch to 2nd gear by pushing the gear lever out of notch I, pulling it back again and letting it snap into notch II. Then engage the clutch again and accelerate. When the car has reached a speed of around 30 km, release the clutch again while releasing the throttle, and switch from 2nd gear to 3rd gear by pushing the gear lever out of notch II and moving it back to notch III. It is therefore advisable to first check the position of the individual gears while the engine is running. To do this, you will of course need to release the clutch. Speed control while driving is then carried out by accelerating. Reverse gear is engaged by moving the gear lever forwards from the L notch to the R notch.

Before engaging reverse gear, the car must have come to a complete stop. The individual gear positions are marked next to the gear lever notches.

When shifting up, i.e., from 1st to 2nd or 3rd gear, do not accelerate; when shifting down, i.e., from 3rd to 2nd or 1st gear, accelerate a little. Never use excessive force when shifting!

Important!
Get used to taking your foot off the clutch pedal as soon as you have finished changing gears as even a light pressure on it releases the clutch slightly and causes it to drag, thus causing greater wear on the clutch plates.

Avoid using the clutch incorrectly when cornering or when using it on long journeys uphill. When driving in 2nd or 1st gear, wait until the engine has picked up speed.

7. Operating the throttle:
When starting, do not press the throttle all the way down straight away, but feather it carefully, so that the engine can accept and process the gas supply. The characteristic feature of the two-stroke engine means that when driving uphill in high gear, you do not give it full throttle, but rather back off a little with the throttle; the engine will then pull better than at full throttle. On long, straight stretches it is also impractical to drive at full throttle; it is better to only give 3/4 throttle. The best thing to do is to move the throttle back a little and accelerate again until you find the best position. This will achieve almost the same speed as when you press the accelerator pedal all the way down, but the fuel consumption is better.

8. The brakes should only be used when necessary and should not be fully applied. If you brake too hard, the wheels and braked wheels will suddenly become jerky or seized. When driving around bends, take your foot off the accelerator about 20 m before the bend. After you have accelerated, let the car go through the bend a little and avoid over-steering or turning the steering wheel violently. Before starting, always make sure that the handbrake is fully released when the vehicle is stationary.

III. Care and maintenance of engine and vehicle.
1. The engine:
One sign that cleaning is necessary is when engine performance begins to decrease. This is easy to remedy with the two-stroke system. First, remove the muffler and clean it. We recommend using the special cleaning agent Henkel P 3, which quickly dissolves the residue. Then remove the exhaust pipe from the cylinder and clean the exhaust channel of any combustion residue. When doing this, the piston should be positioned so that the exhaust slots are covered from the inside. After carefully removing the residue, everything should be blown off with an air pump. After a long period of operation it is advisable to remove the cylinder and clean the combustion chamber and the overflow channels of oil carbon. In doing so, the piston rings should also be checked to ensure that they are seated freely in the grooves. It is advisable to carefully remove the piston rings using three small strips of metal. When reinstalling the rings, make sure that they are correctly inserted into the fixing pins. The normal cleaning time is between 10,000 and 15,000 kilometers. The build-up of combustion residues can be reduced by injecting a little petroleum into the cylinder from time to time, preferably after the end of the journey. This can be done safely with the petroil lubrication mixture. One maintenance job that must not be overlooked and must be carried out after the first 500, 1,000 and 1,500 km and then at regular intervals is tightening the fastening screws on the carburetor intake manifold, cylinder head and cylinder head.

At the same time, it is important to clean the filter on the fuel tap every 1,000 km. To do this, remove the dirt cup after locking the lever with a 17 mm spanner, clean it and then remove the actual cleaning screen with a pair of pliers. Dirt particles also build up in the carburetor itself, especially in the float chamber, which prevents the device from functioning properly.

2. Ignition:
A special operating manual with relevant information is included in the documents for this car about the Dyna starter system used, a combined light, ignition and starter unit.

3. The spark plug:
If the spark plug fails or the ignition is irregular, always check first whether the spark plug is OK. Even if the plug sparks well when you hold it to the cylinder mass, try using a different plug, as the plug behaves differently under compression pressure in the cylinder. Beru 180/H or Bosch M 175/1 can be used. Other plugs with a so-called low glow value must not be used under any circumstances, as these plugs overheat and thus have a negative impact on performance and consumption, and in extreme cases can even damage the engine.

In this regard, we warn against the Bosch M 95/1 or M 145/1 spark plugs, which are often found in the automobile and accessories trade, and which must not be used under any circumstances.

The spark plugs should be unscrewed every 1,000 to 1,500 km and cleaned with a steel brush. At this point, the electrodes should be checked for wear and gap and, if necessary, the latter should be corrected to the specified dimension of 0.4 mm. (control dimension on the breaker key).

Important! Various sources of error in the engine can also cause the appropriate spark plug to fail. Such errors are: leakage at the intake manifold, cylinder flange, cylinder head due to loosening of the fastening nuts. Contamination of the carburetor or cleaning screen in the tank or the supply line. Incorrect adjustment of the carburetor, i.e. too small a nozzle, incorrect ignition setting.

We expressly point out that a higher setting than that specified by us is inappropriate and harmful.

Incorrect use of operating materials.

Mixing ratio not correct.
You can of course tell from the appearance of the spark plug whether the engine is OK or whether there are any faults, as mentioned above. If the spark plug shows whitish spots with small melting beads, it is too hot and there must be a fault. If, on the other hand, the spark plug looks black, sooty and oily, this is evidence that the piston is no longer fully supporting the engine, the piston rings are encrusted, the muffler is dirty or the carburetor setting was too high. Other causes include incorrect ignition setting, use of poor quality oil or too little oil in the mixture.

4. Care of the clutch:
The clutch does not require any special maintenance. However, the use of the prescribed lubricant is essential, consisting of a mixture of 2/3 Ambroleum and 1/3 thin engine oil, such as Shell 3X. If only Ambroleum or engine oil 3X is used, the clutch will slip and thus wear out more.

5. Adjusting the brakes:
The brakes are adjusted using the toggle nuts on the brake levers. It is best to jack up the wheels to check the adjustment. When jacking up the rear wheels, make sure that the jack is placed under the axle housing and not directly under the axle shaft. With the brakes released, first tighten the knobs until the wheels are secure, then back off until the wheel is completely free again. After this work, press the foot pedal lever about 1/4 to 1/3 of its way through. By turning the wheel, test whether all wheels brake evenly. In order to keep the braking effect at its full level, the brake pedal shaft and the brake hoses must always be well greased.

6. Check the track of the front wheels:
The correct track of the front wheels is particularly important, since if they are adjusted, e.g,. by driving onto curbs, the immediate result is high wear on the tires. When the wheels are correctly adjusted (the car should not be jacked up), they should be 5 mm closer at the front edges than at the rear edges. If the setting has changed for any reason, the adjustment may only be carried out on the adjustable tie rods.

7. Care of the vehicle:
Over time, various screws will naturally loosen due to the vibrations of the road, such as the fastenings to the engine, the fuel tank, the fenders, the headlights, etc. These fastenings should be carefully checked from time to time and any loose screws tightened.

8. Care of the body:
You should make it a rule to clean the car inside and out every 6-8 days or have it cleaned. It is recommended to pre-clean it first with a weak water jet and sponge. With the type of body used, it is important to avoid directing the water jet directly at it, as this will push the dirt into the covering. The car is then dried slightly, sprayed with DKW car polish and polished again. In this way, the coating is not only kept shiny, but also made as resistant as possible to the effects of the weather.

9. Tire care:
It is essential to keep the tires in good condition to maintain the prescribed air pressure. It is advisable to have small mechanical damage repaired as soon as possible in a good vulcanizing facility. Worn rims should also be repaired and the affected areas repainted, as rusted rims damage the rubber in a short time.

10. Battery care:
Please note the information in section 15. If the battery is checked every 4 weeks for charge status, acid density and acid level above the plates and recharged using an external power source, it will always work satisfactorily and have the longest service life. For the battery to work properly, it is especially important that it is always kept clean, that the connections are tight and that they are occasionally greased with acid-free Vaseline to avoid oxide formation. It is important to warn against using stronger or replacement fuses made of tin foil or similar.

11. Lubrication of the vehicle:
The prescribed qualities must be used in the quantities specified for lubricating the vehicle and gearbox. The lubrication table (above) provides precise information on lubricating the vehicle itself, specifying the lubrication point, lubricating material and lubrication time.

12. Retensioning the drive chain:
In order to be able to re-tension the drive chain, which is rarely necessary due to the short length of the drive and the strain-free suspension of the same, the engine-gearbox block is mounted so that it can be moved in the swing frame.

To do this, loosen the fastening screws arranged horizontally on the front engine mount and vertically on the rear mount and slide the engine into the desired position. Do not pull the chain too tight; it should sag by about 2 cm. Tighten the fastening screws again.

IV. Description of the DKW two-stroke engine.

The DKW two-stroke engine works according to Dr. Schnürle's three-channel reverse scavenging system. The engine does not have any valves, springs or the like as in four-stroke engines. It has only five moving parts, in contrast to the valve engine, which requires many more moving parts. The gases are transported in and out of the cylinder through channels cast into the cylinder itself, which are opened and closed by the upper and lower edges of the piston. In the two-stroke engine, every downward movement of the piston is associated with a power output, while in the four-stroke engine, power is only generated every second downward movement. Therefore, the power output of the two-stroke engine is more even and its running more regular - a fact that in practice results in faster acceleration, greater acceleration and better hill-climbing ability, which is synonymous with freedom of gear shifting.

However, the higher number of ignition sparks gives the ear the impression that the two-stroke engine is running at particularly high speeds. In contrast, the maximum speed of the DKW two-stroke engine is 3,500 revolutions per minute, a speed that is exceeded by most four-stroke engines. The way the DKW two-stroke engine works is basically the same as that of a four-stroke engine, with the only difference being that the four working phases (filling with fresh gas, compressing, exploding and emptying the old gas) have been condensed into two working phases, since there are always working processes occuring above and below the piston. The entire working process is therefore, as already mentioned, carried out in two working periods, called strokes for short:

1st stroke: (idle stroke) pre-compression below the piston in the crankcase, above the piston expulsion of the burned gases and overflow of the fresh gas.
2nd stroke (power stroke) Above the piston the fresh gas is injected into the crankcase, above the piston the gas is compressed and ignited.

The following can be said in detail about the working principle. The fresh gas is sucked into the crankcase during the upward stroke of the piston and then pre-compressed to 0.17 atm during the downward stroke of the piston. Shortly after bottom dead center, the piston now opens two overflow channels with its upper edge. The gas passes through the piston body itself in order to flush it from the inside and cool it, through the overflow channels into the actual combustion chamber. Since the overflow channels are arranged in a corresponding backward direction, the gas does not flow centrally into the combustion chamber, but tangentially into the rear part of it. These two flows can be imagined as a compact mass that now meet in the rear part of the combustion chamber, collide with one another, straighten up and thus fulfill the task that falls to the so-called 'guide vane piston' in the other two-stroke system. The DKW two-stroke engine does not require a special piston and the piston is smooth and even like that of a four-stroke engine, which is a huge advantage in terms of materials and operation. The gas is now compressed. The compression ratio is 1:5.7. Ignition occurs 6 mm before top dead center. The gases begin to burn and, after the piston has passed top dead center (i.e., the mixture has completely burned), they release power and push the piston downwards. The piston then opens the exhaust channels and the burned gas is released through the exhaust pipe and the mufflers.

The scavenging process is caused by the fact that the upper edge of the exhaust channels is higher than that of the transfer channels, so when the piston moves downwards, the exhaust channels are opened first and the hot gases are released, but also by the shape of the transfer channels and the cylinder head. Since the overflow channels are located very close to the exhaust channels, meaning that the gas describes an almost closed, egg-shaped curved path inside the cylinder and turns around again above the scavenging chamber, this scavenging is called reverse scavenging.

V. Faults and their solutions.
1.The engine does not start:
Fuel tap closed - open
Fuel supply line blocked – remove and clean
Dirt in the carburetor, internal supply line blocked – reseal the carburetor and fasten it well
Excessive air in the carburetor – press the operating lever for the float 2-3 times
Too little fuel in the intake line – press the accelerator pedal the way down
Too much dabbing on the carburetor's float needle – it is best to let the float housing run dry after you have finished driving
Mixture containing too much oil – change the fuel
Water in the fuel – change the fuel
2. No spark at the ignition:
a) mechanical fault in the spark plug – electrode gap too large, insulation material damaged
b) fault in the ignition – See Dynastart system
3.The breaker electrodes do not lift enough: adjust to 0.4mm
4.The engine starts but stops again:
Fuel supply interrupted or reduced – Clean the filter sieve, fuel line and carburetor
Unsuitable fuel, unsuitable oil, unsuitable mixture ratio – see relevant information on page 4
Carburetor setting too high - see special sheet for carburetor setting
Correct operation of the carburetor - only press the throttle valve slowly
5. Engine suddenly stops:
Fuel out – refill
Carburetor jet clogged with water or dirt – Clean nozzle
Defective spark plugs - Replace
Breaker defective – check breaker
Electrode material worn out - Replace
6. Engine runs irregularly:
Leaks in the engine – Replace seals
Carburetor setting too low – Tighten screws
Engine runs in four-stroke mode, kickback in the carburetor – larger nozzles
Float in the carburetor defective - replace
Electrodes on the breaker open too wide, lining material worn out – Setting too small, unsuitable spark plugs
Too much late ignition, too much advance ignition – error in ignition timing setting
Mixture contains too much oil – adjust fuel oil mix, use correct mixture ratio
7. Engine overheats:
Leaks in the various seals – replace seals, tighten bolts
Carburetor setting too low – adjust settings or replace with larger nozzles
Unsuitable fuel, unsuitable oil, incorrect mixture ratio - Use the operating fluid as specified and in the specified mixture ratio
Use spark plugs as specified on page 10; carry out checks as per the instructions on page 10
Unsuitable spark plug - Use spark plugs as specified on page 10; carry out checks as per the instructions on page 10 Adjustment of the ignition timing - Check the ignition setting according to our instructions

8. Knocking in the engine:
Overheating knocking - Leaks in the various seals. The fuel-air mixture contains too much air = carburetor setting too small; Mixture containing too much oil; cooling prevented.
Signs of irregular running, braking when suddenly accelerating, high-pitched ringing
Bearing knocking - Damage to the bearings on the connecting rod (connecting rod head, connecting rod foot) or on the crankshaft due to unsuitable operating materials or improper operation
Sign: constant, dull metallic knocking, particularly audible when switching
Ignition knocking - Ignition timing too early. Adjust to no more than 7 mm. Symptoms: Hard engine work, pounding in high gear, in city traffic and on inclines.
Fuel knocking - Self-ignition of the explosive mixture due to the use of too little knock-resistant fuel (petrol), use benzene additive, six parts petrol, four parts benzene. Symptoms: Bright metallic ringing, engine overheating Glow ignition knocking - Spark plug not heat-resistant enough. The spark plug table provides information. Remove residue from the inside of the cylinder, channels and exhaust pipes.
Signs: Irregular operation, buzzing sound. Continues to run when the ignition current is switched off
Piston knocking - piston no longer supports properly, poor compression due to stuck piston rings. Use Shell Autoöl 4x (Golden Shell) as a lubricant. Symptoms: loud clattering when starting and driving slowly in high gear, poor starting and getting hot
Piston knocking - piston no longer supports properly, poor compression due to stuck piston rings. Use Shell car oil 4x (Golden Shell) as a lubricant. Signs: Loud clattering when starting and driving slowly in high gear, difficult starting and getting hot

9. Banging in the carburetor:
Petrol supply prevented; cleaning screen dirty - Clean the line; Clean the filter
Dirt or water in the carburetor or nozzle - Clean the carburetor
Carburetor setting too small – Make the adjustment slightly larger
The fuel level in the float chamber is too low - Set the float slightly higher
Incorrect air in the carburetor or intake manifold; or seals protruding into the intake duct - Refasten and reseal Unsuitable spark plug - Use the correct spark plug
Self-adjustment of the ignition – Check the ignition timing
General information on ignition.
1. Check the breaker: Check whether the contacts are lifting properly. The distance between the contact surfaces when breaking should normally be 0.4 mm (plus or minus 0.1 mm). If the contacts are further apart, there is a risk that the spark will stop at high speeds.
2. Check whether the contacts are not oily or burnt and therefore uneven, and also whether the contact inserts (tungsten) have come loose or come off. If necessary, replace the contacts or clean the surfaces.
3. Check whether the breaker hammer can be lifted off easily and does not get stuck.
4. Check whether the ignition cable has not broken through. If the ignition fails, always check first whether the spark plug is OK.
Even if the spark plug is producing a good spark, try using a different one, as the spark plug behaves differently under gas pressure than under normal pressure.

Checks after the first 500 and 1200 km, then every 4000 km.

On the engine:
1. Clean the spark plug, check the appearance of the spark plug.
2. Check the ignition timing setting and the breaker opening.
3. Clean the carburetor and insert a smaller jet after 2000 km.
4. Choose a thinner fuel and oil mixture ratio after 1500 km.
5. Check the fluid level in the battery, top up with distilled water, recharge if necessary, keep the battery clean and dry, grease the contacts.
6. Check the fastening screws on the cylinder head, cylinder flange, overflow channel, carburetor flange, intake manifold, fuel line, radiator connection, exhaust line.
7. Adjust the clutch if necessary, clean the fuel strainer, clean the distributor cap.
8. Replace the grease in the gearbox, clean the exhaust line and the pan.

On the vehicle:
1. Check that all wheels run smoothly.
2. Check that the steering is easy to move and that there is no excessive play.
3. Check the caster and track on the vehicle, adjust if necessary.
4. Follow the lubrication schedule.
5. Adjust the brakes slightly if necessary.
6. Check that the tires have the correct air pressure, check for rubber damage if necessary.
7. Check the fastening screws, namely: axle nuts, fender, gas tank, horn, battery, control parts.
8. Check the lighting, focus setting and angle of the headlights.
9. Tighten the drive chain if necessary.

Remedial measures if the engine is not working satisfactorily.
The best countermeasure is to adjust the carburetor settings to the respective conditions at the place of operation, i.e. the mixture is distributed evenly between both cylinders. A reliable check for the proper operation of the engine, and therefore indirectly also for the mixture distribution, can be found in the so-called spark plug face.
1. The carburetor settings are not sufficiently adapted to the respective air conditions at the place of operation.
2. There may be mechanical faults in the carburetor, caused by dirt accumulation in the float housing, deflection of the float needle cone or the float body, a nozzle body that is not tightened or a loose nozzle needle within the throttle slide. Over time, the throttle slides will of course also deflect, and this will create a noise; this also means that the wrong air is sucked in, which is why we recommend replacing both slides after a longer period of operation.
3. Another fault can arise if the carburetor becomes loose and the wrong air is sucked in, and the float can no longer close properly if it is in an inclined position.

In general, it can be said that consumption is mainly influenced by the sources of fault that cause the engine to heat up excessively, namely:
a) Leaks in the carburetor, intake manifold, felt rings, cylinder flange, cylinder head, decompression valve, spark plug, etc.
b) The piston no longer supports the piston fully and blows through in one place; the piston rings are stuck together and no longer have any tension.
c) Residues have formed on the cylinder arms, in the exhaust ducts, the exhaust line and the mufflers.
d) Another source of error is the ignition timing setting, and there may also be mechanical errors in the ignition device itself, i.e. in other words, the ignition spark is too weak, which has the effects mentioned.
e) In connection with consumption, the question of spark plugs is of particular importance. If there are sources of error, even if the correct plug has been selected, the plug will become too hot and have an adverse effect on consumption.
f) The operating materials play an equally important role. It is absolutely essential that they are selected according to our instructions and that our instructions regarding oil and mixture ratio are observed."

1934 Framo Piccolo Owners Manual