We ask you:
Read this manual before you start using the motorcycle and do not put off this brief lesson about your vehicle until "later".
Even though you no longer need to be an expert to operate a modern motorcycle, even experienced drivers need a certain amount of knowledge to protect the machine from improper handling, especially in the early days. Correct operation and careful care will ensure trouble-free operation and significantly increase the service life of the machine.
We therefore recommend that you follow the instructions given here conscientiously; then the machine will meet all requirements and always give you complete pleasure.
Don't forget:
- Run-in period!
- Correct oil!
- Correct mixture ratio!
- Correct spark plug!
- Regularly check cleaning filter (tank outlet), supply line, carburetor and spark plug!
- Timing of the vehicle on time!
Fig. 1. Engine-gearbox block of type SB 200 (clutch side):
In the DKW engines, the drive motor, the clutch and the gearbox are combined to form an organic block unit. There are therefore no free-running parts, especially no running connecting chain between the engine and gearbox, since this drive is carried out by gears.
1. The DKW two-stroke engine
The DKW two-stroke engine works with the three-channel system of re-circulation scavenging. In this system, the gas inlet and outlet are not passed through a complicated mechanism of gears, cams, valve tappets, transmission gears, rocker arms, valve springs and valves, but simply through channels cast into the cylinder, which are opened and closed by the piston itself. A significant improvement and simplification compared to the conventional two-stroke engine is that the DKW two-stroke engine is built using Dr. Schnürle's re-circulation scavenging system, which DKW has acquired under exclusive license. A special piston with a shovel-shaped piston crown is no longer necessary, but a smooth piston can be used as in a four-stroke engine. Since ignition takes place at every top dead center of the piston, this results in greater power, higher torque and thus greater elasticity compared to a four-stroke engine. The DKW single-cylinder two-stroke engine is therefore not only as effective as a two-cylinder four-stroke engine, and the DKW two-cylinder four-stroke engine not only as effective as a four-cylinder four-stroke engine, but also surpasses it due to the unique characteristics of the piston.
Fig. 2. Engine gearbox block of the SB 200 type (alternator and starter side).
Its operation and simplicity are even more significant. The aim is not so much to achieve a high top speed as to improve acceleration and pulling power, factors which can only be achieved with a four-stroke engine using a multi-cylinder machine. The two-stroke engine, however, has these two properties not only to the same extent, but to a greater extent, but with a much simpler and lighter machine.
Operation:
The piston moves from bottom to top, creating a vacuum in the crankcase which, after opening, is compensated for by air from the air intake. The air under the piston is forced through the fuel tank and the carburetor. The piston sucks in and presses the mixture into the housing again, namely at 0.17 bar. The turbulence in front of the optimized two lateral gas-air overflow channels reaches the open combustion chamber in a tangential direction, namely as these are inclined downwards. The two parts of the gas streams meet at the back of the combustion chamber sieve, so that the burned gases collide and reach the front and collide and flush the exhaust gases. The piston presses the fresh gases together again, pushing them forwards in the combustion chamber. Shortly before the point Opening of the intake duct by the piston rod compensates for the atmospheric air. The air is sucked in by the carburetor and takes fuel with it. The piston then compresses the mixture in the crankcase as it moves back down to 0.17 atm. The pre-compressed gas-air mixture reaches the actual combustion chamber after the two lateral overflow ducts are opened and, as these are arranged at an angle, in a tangential direction backwards. The two gas streams meet in the rear part of the combustion chamber, collide with one another, straighten up and reach the upper part of the combustion chamber, pushing the burned old gases in front of them and flushing them out. The piston now compresses the fresh gases again as it moves upwards. Shortly before the piston has reached its highest point (top dead centre), the gas mixture is ignited by an ignition spark that jumps over the spark plug and begins to burn. After the piston has passed top dead centre, the gas mixture is completely burned and pushes the piston downwards. Now the exhaust channels are opened by the top edge of the piston and the exhaust gases escape through the exhaust pipes. Then the overflow channels open again and the working process begins again. You can see that the working method of the two-stroke engine is basically the same as that of the four-stroke engine, with the only difference being that the four working phases (filling with fresh gas, compression, combustion and discharging) are compressed into two working phases, since there are always working periods below and above the piston at the same time. The two working phases or strokes are therefore:
1st stroke: (power stroke) compression below the piston in the crankcase, above the piston expulsion of the burned gases and overflow of the fresh gas.
2nd stroke: (idle stroke) below the piston intake of the fresh gas into the crankcase, above the piston compression and ignition of the gas.
Fig. 7. The engine of the DKW single-cylinder machine: It consists of crankshaft, connecting rod and piston, i.e. only 3 parts.
Fig. 8. The engine of the DKW 2-cylinder engine: The entire engine consists of only 5 parts: crankshaft, 2 connecting rods, 2 pistons. It is clearly visible how powerful the engine is in relation to the power of the engine.
The operating materials:
The selection of operating materials requires a great deal of experience. It is in your own interest to follow the factory's advice, which is based on many years of experience in practical operation.
Fuel.
We recommend a branded fuel for DKW motorcycles. For particularly intensive operation, long-distance journeys, reliability tests, and especially when petrol shows signs of stalling, a petrol-benzene mixture is recommended. If a mixture is used continuously, a slightly smaller nozzle can be selected: however, the ignition must not be adjusted.
Fuel additives:
It is recommended to add Auto-Collag to the fuel in addition to the oil, for a tank filling of 13 litres add 5 cc, which corresponds to a single filling using the cap of the canister designed as a measure. If this specified quantity is adhered to, there are significant advantages, especially during the running-in period.
Lubrication and lubricating material:
Lubrication in the DKW two-stroke engines is achieved by adding the lubricant to the fuel. This lubrication system has significant advantages, as no overhead lines or mechanical oil pumping devices are required and the oil supply is automatically adjusted to the respective load conditions, and above all, no control of the oil supply is required. There is also no need to use summer and winter oil and lubrication begins immediately even at low outside temperatures (quick start in winter). The requirements for the lubrication system However, the material is very specific and therefore the factory specifications should be followed wherever possible. Despite chemical similarity, other oils can cause under-lubrication, smoke formation and heavy residue formation. The use of highly fatty oils or oils with a high castor content should be avoided at all costs. The WETK recommends Shell Auto Oil 4x for lubrication. Shell Oil Yol-tol should not be used.
Mixing ratio:
The amount of oil added to the fuel depends on the oil requirement, i.e. on the load on the vehicle, and therefore no schematic information can be given for this. During the running-in period, use 1 litre of oil for 18 litres of fuel (this corresponds to a mixing ratio of 1:18) to make running-in easier. It is advisable to warn against using more oil, i.e. For example, a mixing ratio of 1:15 or 1:10 is not recommended, as this only causes problems such as oiling the spark plugs and dirtying the engine. After the break-in period, a mixing ratio of 1:20 is selected. An exception is urban traffic, where the vehicle often stops and starts and does not drive fast, with the engine idling for a long time. In this case, a mixing ratio of 1:15 can be used. For intensive use, off-road driving, long-distance driving at high speeds, it is advisable to select a ratio of 1:22-20. The use of a so-called sports oil such as Aero-Shell is not advisable for urban and short-distance driving. One of these can be used for normal driving and in this case should be mixed 1:25. For intensive sports purposes, experience has shown that a larger amount of oil is required, in a ratio of 1:22-20.
Preparing the mixture:
Dissolve an appropriate amount of oil in 1 litre of fuel in a clean container by stirring well. This mixture, which contains too much oil, is then poured into the tank and the rest of the pure fuel is added directly from the pump into the tank in the amount corresponding to the oil additive. Pouring pure oil, i.e. without fuel, into the tank is not recommended.
The spark plug:
Fig. 9. The spark plug: The plug can be dismantled for cleaning. A 22 mm spanner is used for this. Spark plugs should be washed in petrol, but spark plugs should only be cleaned dry. After cleaning, the plug should be closed properly again.
The right type:
The DKW motorcycles of the SB models are supplied as standard with Bosch spark plugs DM 225/1. It is advisable to choose this brand and model when replacing the spark plug after a long period of operation. We strongly advise against using Bosch spark plugs with a glow value that is too low, such as ZB, M 25, M 45 or DM 95. For city traffic and low demands in terms of speed, the Bosch DM 17511 spark plug can be used. For specific sports purposes, the glow value can be increased somewhat and Bosch spark plugs DM 180/G 24 can be used, which are more sensitive to oil and therefore not suitable for normal use. Of all other makes, Siemens AG 40 is recommended for normal use, Siemens AG 30/5 for city traffic and Siemens AG 50 for sports purposes. Beru spark plugs can be used for normal use, 180/H 1 for city traffic, and 200/aB for sporty purposes. Other spark plugs from small, unknown manufacturers, and especially spark plugs with too low a glow value, must not be used, as this can cause serious damage to the engine.
Oiling of the correct spark plug:
In this case, the following faults may exist: main jet too large, idle air jet not open enough, defective float, high fuel level in the float chamber, unsuitable oil, too much oil in the fuel, coking and sticking of the piston rings, faulty ignition setting (set too late), mechanical faults in the ignition (condenser, ignition coil, connecting cable), contact breakers sticking, operating temperature too low (engine remains too cold), driving too slowly in high gear.
The correct spark plug is overheating:
The causes can be the following: main jet too small, idle air jet too wide open, fuel flow restricted due to dirt in the line, the filter or the regulator, defective seal on the intake manifold, on the overflow channels, on the cylinder head; excessive build-up of residue in the channels and exhaust silencers. Ignition set too early, loose spark plugs, driving too fast.
Fig. 10 Fuel tap and cleaning strainer: The fuel is filtered as it comes out of the tank. If the fuel level in the tank is low, unscrew the strainer after tilting the machine and wash it out thoroughly in petrol. This should be done approximately every 3-5000 km! To open the fuel line, pull out the lower button marked "Open". In this position, a petrol reserve of approx. 2 litres remains in the tank, which can be accessed by pulling out the upper button marked "Res". Don't forget to press the upper button back in after refueling so that the reserve quantity is secured again.
Checking the spark plug:
Just as the correct spark plug is caused to fail by damage to the engine, you can recognize corresponding damage before it has any effect by the appearance of the spark plug. If the filter looks black, this is due to the faults mentioned under "oiling of the spark plug". If, on the other hand, the electrodes have a whitish appearance with small beads. It is therefore difficult to conclude that the faults listed under "Spark plugs getting too hot" are present. The stress on the spark plug is extremely high. You only need to keep in mind that the combustion temperature is between 1600 and 1800 degrees Celsius, and it is therefore very advisable to adjust the spark plug accordingly. This means checking that the plug is firmly seated and that the distance between the side electrodes and the centre electrodes is 015-016 mm. If the distance If the spark plug is too small or larger, it will be harder to start, it will slide back into the carburetor, and this will naturally lead to a reduction in performance and an increase in consumption. The spark plug used can be removed and can therefore be easily opened and cleaned with a 2:1 mm spanner. The normal lifespan of a spark plug is 10-15,000 km. After this time, the spark plug is subject to natural wear and tear and should be replaced with a new one.
Fig. 11. Fuel tap and cleaning strainer: To clean the strainer, first remove the protective cover with a 17 mm spanner, then use the combination pliers to remove the strainer nut. All parts should be washed thoroughly in petrol. Replace in the correct order and tighten firmly. In normal driving position, the lever is vertically downwards. In this lever position, a reserve fuel quantity of approx. 2 liters remains in the tank, sufficient for a distance of approx. 20 km. This reserve quantity is switched on by turning the tap to the left. Do not forget to put the lever back down after refueling so that the reserve quantity is secured again.
10 minutes of driving practice.
Proper running in is very important for good performance and a long lifespan of the motorcycle. Speed limit: The engine and transmission parts must first run in smoothly before the machine can be fully used. A certain speed limit is therefore appropriate during the first driving period, which we set at 1500-2000 km. On the other hand, however, we do not give any schematic, absolutely fixed information; you must therefore use your own feeling here. In general, the following speed limit should be observed in each gear:
1st Gear - 12-15 km
2nd Gear - 15-25 km
3rd Gear - 25-50 km
4th Gear - 50-60 km (only the SB500)
The numbers indicate the lowest and highest speed in each gear. However, you should not go to the other extreme and drive too slowly, especially not in direct gear. At a speed of 26 km/h, you should therefore switch to 2nd gear. Driving slowly at 150 km/h in high gear places a high load on the bearings, gearbox and power transmission elements. There is also a risk of coking of the piston rings and oiling of the spark plug.
Fig. 12. Location of the starter switch on the SB 200 and SB 500 Luxus: The starter switch is located on the left, easy to reach from the saddle. Operation: First press the push button lever, adjust the operating lever on the handlebar correctly, then press the kickstart briefly: i.e. start the engine. To start the engine, see page 23, sources of error page 111
Starting the engine:
First open the fuel line, either by pressing the two-button lever (as shown on page 19) or by pushing the lever back (see Fig. 11). Now insert the ignition key, press it firmly into the switch and turn it upwards to position 2. The red indicator light will light up to indicate that the battery has been correctly disconnected. Now press the carburetor's push button a little, close the air and throttle lever. Before you press down the kick starter, make sure that the gear lever is in the idle position between 1st and 2nd gear. It is a driving experience that you do not press the kick starter down very quickly, but slowly once or twice to let the engine suck in, and then you press it down quickly for the third time and the engine will start without any problems.
Fig. 13. Top view of the machine with designation of the control levers.
Difficulty starting.
If the machine has not started after 5-7 attempts to kickstart, check the engine at the angle given on page 111 for eliminating difficult starting. The start described above with a cold engine. If the engine is warmed-up, the swab on the float housing must no longer be pressed down. The air valve must also no longer be closed, but must be opened about 1/3, as must the throttle lever. After the cold engine has started, let it warm up for about 1/2 to 1 minute. On machines with an electric starter, press the starter button instead of pressing down the kickstarter lever.
Starting off:
After starting the engine, sit on the machine, pull the left clutch lever all the way towards the handlebars and switch to first gear by pushing the gear lever all the way down on 200, 250, 300 and 350 cc machines, but all the way up on 500 cc machines. The position of the individual gears is clearly marked on the shift segment on the tank, as well as in Fig. 14 and 15. Now give it a little more gas and slowly let go of the clutch lever, whereupon the machine starts moving. After approx. 5 m, pull the clutch lever all the way towards the handlebars again and switch to 2nd gear. After completing the shifting operation, you then have to give it a little more gas again so that the engine can continue to pull the machine. After another 10-15 m, switch to 3rd gear in the same way.
Fig. 14 (left). The gearshift lever positions on the DKW single-cylinder engine.
Fig. 15 (right). The gearshift lever positions on the DKW two-cylinder engine.
When shifting up, i.e., when changing from a low gear to a higher gear, turn the throttle lever back when changing gear, i.e. while operating the clutch. When changing back, i.e. from a high gear to a low gear, do not turn the throttle lever all the way down, as the engine must be accelerated somewhat while changing gear. If the first gear cannot be switched on easily, move the machine backwards and forwards a little with your foot, after which the gear can be switched on smoothly and noiselessly. Do not let the clutch slip on steep slopes or just before the top of a hill. This is absolutely unprofessional and will quickly damage the clutch lining.
Operating the throttle:
1. Operating the throttle differs in some respects from that of two-stroke engines, but is very easy to do. - After starting, the throttle is not fully opened, but gradually as the machine speed increases.
2. On inclines, as long as you can manage with the high gear, the throttle is not fully opened, but slightly reduced using the throttle - or with a two-lever carburetor, the air lever. The engine then pulls better. Only when you switch to a lower gear can you open the air lever again and also open the throttle further. It is of course advisable not to drive the machine to full speed in the lower gears.
3. When driving long, straight stretches, there is only a small difference in terms of performance, but a considerable difference in terms of consumption, depending on whether the throttle is fully opened to the stop or reduced slightly (to about 3/4 throttle). Don't just hold on to one throttle position, but turn the throttle back and forth until you find the best position.
Fig. 16. Adjusting the rear wheel brake: The brakes can be adjusted without any tools by turning the knob slightly to the right. Normally 2 turns are sufficient. After adjustment, check whether the wheel can be turned easily (i.e. fully open the brake shoes!).
Operating the brakes:
The handbrake acts on the front wheel. It is extremely powerful and should be pulled slowly and quickly. The foot brake on the rear wheel should also not be pushed down too hard or suddenly.
On steep slopes, use the two brakes alternately.
The brakes should be used as little as possible because braking means wasting power. A throttled-down engine is also a good brake, but you should then accelerate a little from time to time to avoid oiling the spark plug. If you are forced to wait a while at road junctions or other obstacles, do not constantly disengage the clutch, but switch to neutral.
Adjusting the brakes:
This is done by adjusting the toggle nut and can be done very easily by hand without tools. After adjusting the brakes, you must ensure that the wheels rotate completely freely when the brake is released.
Fig. 17. Adjusting the front wheel brake. The brakes can be adjusted without any tools by simply turning the knob clockwise. Normally 2 turns are sufficient. After adjustment, check whether the wheel can be turned easily (i.e. the brake shoes should be fully opened).
Summary of important points for driving practice:
- Warm up the engine before starting.
- Do not open the throttle fully after starting.
- Check from time to time whether the brakes are fully released, i.e. do not get stuck.
- When going uphill, reduce the throttle slightly.
- Do not drive too slowly, otherwise there is an increase in fuel consumption, a risk of carbon build-up on the piston rings and a risk of oil contamination on the spark plug.
- Do not drive too fast, as even over longer distances there is only a small time saving, but a significantly higher fuel and tire consumption, as well as greater strain on the engine.
- Ensure that the transmission and vehicle are properly lubricated.
- Close the fuel tap overnight.
- Always use the same operating materials.
- Periodically clean the fuel strainer at the tank outlet.
- Check the spark plug every 2000 km, clean it and adjust the electrode gap to 0.6 mm.
- The oil wicks in the recess of the breaker cam should be coated with very thin bone oil every 5000 km.
- The tank cap hole should be kept clean.
- Check the battery for acid level and acid density at least every 4 weeks.
- In particularly cold weather, spray a few drops of petroleum into the cylinder in the evening. Using the prescribed amount of auto-collag also makes it easier to start the engine in winter.
- Turn the engine over a few times without turning on the ignition.
- When starting in the dark, it is advisable not to turn on any lights.
- After the engine has started, it is advisable to first switch on the reverse gear, but only engage the clutch 1/4 so that the clutch plates loosen. Now switch back to 1st gear and you can start off completely smoothly and without any noise, even in very cold weather.
- Check the engine for defective seals.
- Recharge the battery using an external power source.
- If the machine is not used in the winter, it should be jacked up, the tires half-deflated, the battery removed, stored in a warm room and recharged every 4 weeks.
With an internal combustion engine, it is unavoidable that oil and fuel combustion residues will build up in the actual combustion chamber and in the drains. It is expected that cleaning will be necessary on average after about 15-20,000 km, but with proper operation, especially if consistent, suitable operating materials are used, it is possible to run the engine for much longer without any residues.
It is advisable not to wait too long before cleaning. To do this, remove the exhaust pipe and exhaust bulb from the cylinder block, clean the engine of any deposited residues and, ideally, remove the cylinder as well. head or the cylinder center section in order to be able to clean the transfer channels, pistons and, above all, the piston rings. Polish all the soot deposits with emery cloth to make it more difficult for residues to form again and then reassemble everything using new gasket plates and liquid sealant. When cleaning the engine, do not forget to clean the exhaust pipe and mufflers (see page 103 for cleaning the mufflers).
II. The power transmission.
Shock absorber:
On the crankshaft (except for the SB 200) there is a shock absorber, consisting of a claw clutch with flat claws that allow the gear to be coupled to give way in the event of road bumps and hard gear shifting.
Clutch:
The clutch is designed as an oil clutch with several discs. The lining is made of cork on small machines and jurid on heavy machines. The force for disengaging the clutch is transferred from a central release pin to a base plate with 8 springs, which ensures even pressure across the entire clutch surface. The clutch works very smoothly and ensures easy gear shifting.
Fig. 18. Clutch disassembled into individual parts: top in the middle is the central drive disk, below on the left are the two lining plates (cork or Jurid) and next to them are the corresponding steel disks. The entire clutch works in an oil bath.
Important for the clutch:
1. Do not release the clutch lever abruptly, but let go of the lever slowly.
2. Be sure to fill the clutch with the prescribed lubricant.
3. Do not put your hand on the hand lever while driving, do not rest your foot on the foot lever.
4. Check the clutch adjustment from time to time.
Adjusting the clutch:
A dead gear of 5 mm must always be felt on the clutch hand lever. Only then is it guaranteed that the clutch will fully engage and safely transmit the engine torque. If the dead gear has been reduced to approx. 2 mm due to natural wear of the clutch lining, the clutch must be adjusted. To do this, loosen the hexagon nut on the release lever and turn the pressure pin out by 1 to 2 gears. If only the Bowden cable has lengthened, adjust it using the Bowden cable adjusting screw on the gearbox cover.
Lubrication of the clutch:
The clutch is lubricated together with the gearbox. Use a mixture of 2/3 Ambreoleum and 1/3 Shell car oil 3 x. If these lubrication instructions are not followed, i.e., a different mixing ratio between the engine oil and Ambreoleum is chosen, or only Ambreoleum or only gearbox oil is used, in the case where the gear lubricant is too stiff, the clutch will stick, while a lubricant that is too thin will result in the clutch slipping.
Fig 19. Adjusting the clutch for 200cc instructions on page 37.
Fig 20. Adjusting the clutch 350 and 500 cc
Fig 21 and 22: When adjusting the clutch travel with this adjustment, the following must be done: Clutch does not release: Adjusting screw to the left, i.e. unscrew (seen from the front). Clutch slips: Adjusting screw to the right, i.e. screw in. When making this fine adjustment, it is necessary to loosen the clutch spindle, as described on page 37, i.e. to correct the setting directly in larger areas. It is essential to ensure that there is the correct play of 5 mm on the control lever.
Fault in the clutch.
Press the clutch completely, i.e., not completely free, the fault can usually be identified. It could of course be due to the clutch cable setting. Other possible causes include too little dead space on the hand lever and in the guide of the Bowden cable. If the clutch has been handled carelessly, there is a possibility that the steel plates have become distorted. In this case, the clutch must be removed and the steel plates must be straightened.
If the clutch has been left to slip for a long time, causing it to heat up excessively, the springs may have burned out and will then need to be replaced with new ones. To check these points, it is best to contact the responsible representative.
The gearbox:
The power is transmitted from the clutch to the gearbox, which has 3 gears [except for the 500cc model, which has 4 gears]. The gear ratios can be found in the assembly table in the appendix. The individual gears are engaged by different gears. The gears are operated by a lever, which is attached to a shift segment on the tank.
The lubrication of the gearbox:
The lubricant is added through the side filler opening above the clutch. According to the lubrication instructions, a mixture consisting of 2/3 Ambreoleum and 1/3 Shell Auto Oil 3 x should be used. The lock nut can be removed with the spark plug wrench. The required filling quantity is 1.6 liters of the prescribed mixture when the gearbox is completely empty. The filling of the lubricant can be made easier by running the engine slowly. After the first 3000 km, and then every 10000 km, the gearbox should be flushed with Shell flushing oil after opening the drain plug below. Since a certain amount of unused lubricant remains in the gearbox, the refill quantity is only 0.5 kg.
111. Additional equipment.
The carburetor:
The carburetor is made by Amal. The type designations for the individual carburetor models can be seen in the table in the appendix. The Amal carburetor is used on around 85% of all motorcycles today. Its popularity is due to its simple design, its easy adjustment and its good preparation of the fuel-air mixture over the entire speed range. The adjustment is made on the main jet, jet needle and idle jet. The automatic adjustment of the fuel flow when the throttle is opened is carried out by the cylindrical jet needle, which is firmly connected to the throttle slide. This means that the fuel is mixed with the intake air in the correct proportions, and is well atomized and nebulized, and this is precisely what makes this carburetor so effective.
Adjusting the carburetor:
The normal adjustment of the carburetor for each machine type can be found in the table on page 46.
Fig. 23. Amal carburetor: On the right side of the carburettor is the air regulation screw, slightly above it is the throttle stop screw. The operation is explained in detail on page 27.
Fig. 24. Amal Carburetor components
It is a peculiarity of the Amal carburetor that the normal factory setting is rarely changed even after use. The following can be said about the setting in general: The main jet is located at the bottom of the jet holder, as can be seen in Fig. 24. It consists of a hexagonal jet body with a diameter of 6.5 mm. Each identification number for each type bears the factory mark and each new original also bears a seal. The stamped identification number corresponds to the flow rate in cc per minute. You cannot therefore measure the jets with a caliper. Adjusting the conical jet needle: To finely regulate the fuel flow, the throttle slide is connected to a conical jet needle, which regulates the fuel flow according to the position of the throttle slide and its concentricity. The conical jet needle can be adjusted within the throttle slide and has 5 notches at the top for this purpose. The needle is held in the desired position by a simple clamp.
The top notch is called position 1, the next one 2, the notch next to the needle tip is position 5. The normal setting is position 2. If the needle is pulled out of the throttle slide, i.e., needle position 1 is assumed, the cone at the flow point becomes stronger and thus the flow rate is lower. If, on the other hand, the needle is pushed into the throttle slide, i.e., needle positions 3-5 are assumed, the cone of the jet needle at the flow point becomes weaker and weaker and thus the fuel flow is correspondingly greater.
The idle position:
The idle speed is regulated on the Amal carburetor by the side regulating screw for the air supply, which can be recognized by the spring load. This screw is only opened 1/4-3/4 of a turn from the closed position. This setting must be observed in particular. If you close the air screw too far, the idle setting will be too rich, which will affect the entire carburetor setting and increase consumption. If you open the screw too far, however, starting will be more difficult, idling will be worse, the engine will hit the carburetor and stop. The correct setting of the idle air and the carburetor is so important because with the Amal carburetor, the perfect idle setting is crucial for the machine to start quickly.
The throttle slide:
The throttle slide of the Amal carburetor has the designation of its shape in a fraction on the top. The throttle slide designation for the respective model can be found in the assembly table. The stop screw for the throttle slide is located halfway up on the side of the slide housing. Here you can limit the throttle slide stop downwards and thus also regulate the idle speed in a second place by not allowing the throttle slide to close completely using the throttle slide screw. However, you should assume a fairly small throttle slide opening so that starting is easier and the engine can be switched off completely using the twist throttle grip.
Bowden cable adjustment screws:
These are located at the top of the mixing chamber housing and are only used to compensate for the dead play in the Bowden cables, not for idle adjustment or for regulating the throttle stop. This adjustment should only be carried out when the throttle has been correctly adjusted using the side screw. There should be about 2 mm of dead play in the Bowden cables to compensate for the cable movement.
Fig. 25 .Adjusting the idle: This is done on the side of the idle nozzle using a screwdriver. Correct adjustment is very important for easy starting! Opening travel 1/4 to 3/4 turn. Detailed description on page 49.
Ease of running in:
To avoid overloading the engine during running and to make it easier to comply with the necessary speed limit during running in, a stop should be installed at the top of the mixing chamber at the beginning of the running in period. This is described in detail on page 27. We would also like to point out here that the machine should be started with the control lever closed when it is cold. It is also important to take into account the difference in the operation of the warm and cold engine.
Care of the carburetor, fuel tap and cleaning the sieve:
The carburetor must be cleaned from time to time, as must the strainer in the tank, the fuel line, the float chamber, the side holes in the mixing chamber for the idle air, the built-in idle fuel nozzle, the fuel tap and the cleaning sieve.
Checking the fuel level in the float chamber.
If, despite correct carburetor adjustment, there are signs of errors that indicate poor mixture formation, the fuel level in the float chamber must be checked. This can easily be done on site. To do this, remove the carburetor, clamp it in a vice, remove the mixing chamber housing from the mixing chamber main nut and then pour fuel into the float chamber until the fuel stops in the inlet opening of the float chamber, i.e., the floating needle has closed the opening. The fuel must then stop 3 mm below the edge of the mixing chamber main nut. If this is not the case, it is not possible to make changes on site and you should contact the carburetor repair shop, Fischer AG for Apparatebau, Frankfurt/Main-Oberrad.
General rules for adjusting the carburetor:
Characteristics of a setting that is too high:
Engine runs in four-stroke mode, i.e., a firing sequence is periodically interrupted - Engine has a dull sound - High fuel consumption - Engine has difficulty getting up to speed - Engine increases speed after the fuel supply is turned off with the lever position remaining the same, approximately 1/2 open - Blackish coating on the spark plug.
Characteristics of a setting that is too low:
Engine bangs into the carburetor - Engine runs irregularly and knocks - Engine shows a tendency to slow down when changing to higher speed - Engine shows poor performance and high consumption - Speed increases when the float needle is tapped - A whitish coating with small melting beads can be found on the spark plug. However, if you notice these symptoms, you should not be fooled into thinking that you can solve the problem by changing the jet size, because the same problems will occur if the faults we have listed on page 113 for poor engine performance and high consumption are present, while the symptoms listed in the second case will occur if the faults we have listed on page 118 for the engine overheating are present.
Cleaning the air filter:
An air filter is installed in front of the carburetor. The filter removes the dirt particles contained in the intake air in an excellent way and thus helps to extend the life of the engine. Dirt naturally builds up in the filter, which is why it must be cleaned from time to time. To do this, remove the filter from the carburetor and rinse it thoroughly in petrol. Before reinstalling it, however, it must be moistened with medium-viscous engine oil to regain its full effectiveness. The air filter should be cleaned approximately every 3000 km, depending on consumption, and this can lead to irregular running (four-stroke running). Nothing should be changed on the air filter. If you drive without an air filter, the carburetor setting will immediately be incorrect, i.e. too small and the machine will get hot. If you want to drive without an air filter for some reason, which we strongly advise against, the main jet must be at least 2 levels larger. (See page 54)
Fig. 26. DKW air filter. This cleans the intake air very well from all road impurities through several wave-shaped sieves connected in series. Depending on the air conditions, the filter must be cleaned after 2-3000 km by washing it in petrol. Afterwards, the filter sieve must be oiled a little with thin motor oil. Drive on the air filter. "A dirty air filter increases fuel consumption"
Influence of the carburetor setting by the exhaust system:
The carburetor setting is not only dependent on the air filter, but also on the exhaust system. The exhaust system may not be changed either, due to police regulations. If the exhaust system is changed, the back pressure changes and with it the flushing process. However, you have to expect a change in the exhaust system, as it becomes dirty due to the expansion of the hot exhaust gases and residues form. If cleaning of the exhaust system is neglected, the hot gases can no longer flow away at the appropriate speed, build up heavily and in turn affect the working process in the engine and thus consumption and performance.
Fuel consumption:
When assessing fuel consumption, it must be taken into account that the factory's consumption figures are determined on the basis of long tests and that this value as an official figure includes an additional 10%. However, as with all other factories, this consumption figure is subject to the following restrictions:
1. Compliance with the average speed of approx. 55 km:
2. Continuous driving:
3. Run on flat terrain:
4. Ensure the engine is run-in properly;
5.Run at correct operating temperature.
If the vehicle is used very frequently at high speed, in urban or short-distance traffic or in very mountainous terrain, there is a completely natural, corresponding increase in fuel consumption without there being any fault. The same applies if the machine is still new, i.e. still in the running-in period, or if the operating temperature is not reached or exceeded. The reasons that can also influence consumption can be found on page 113.
The starter, ignition and lighting system:
Fig. 27. Alternator 90 Watt (dismantled).
Fig. 28. Starter/alternator (disassembled).
1. The alternator:
The alternator is a 12-pole external pole machine. An excitation coil is located between the 2 star-shaped pole irons. On the rear side of the pole iron is the aluminum base plate on which the cap and the breaker are located. The bell-shaped armature with flat track collector is pushed over the pole iron, which sits directly on the crankshaft in place of the flywheel.
The bell armature is attached using a hexagon nut which is secured with a locking washer. The armature is removed using the fastening nut which is held in place by the pull-off disk.
The connection piece with the numbers 1 and 20 is located on the base plate. When assembling, make sure that the connection terminals in the spool box marked with the same numbers are connected to the terminals on the connection piece of the alternator exactly according to the circuit diagram. - Mixing up the cables will cause problems. The entire machine is covered with a protective cap on which the removable breaker is located in the middle. The alternator produces 50 watts for the 200 cc machine and 90 watts for the 350 and 500 cc machine at a voltage of around 6 volts.
2.The starter:
The luxury versions of the 200 and 500 machines are equipped with an electric starter, the so-called Dynastart. The Dynastart is a combined generator and starter device, whose 12-part oil yoke is attached to the engine housing by means of an aluminum base plate. Each of the 12 oil shoes carries an excitation coil, which alternates between a main current winding with a few turns of copper wiring and a shunt winding with many turns of enameled wire. 6 windings are connected in series and serve together to excite the magnetic field during starting, while only the shunt winding is used for excitation during dynamo operation. A bell-shaped armature connected to a flat-track collector is pushed over the pole yoke, which is connected directly to the crankshaft of the engine from the side of the flywheel. The bell-shaped armature is attached to the crankshaft using a cone and a hexagon nut. A special puller is used to remove the armature from the cone. On the inside of the aluminum base plate there is a connecting piece on which the numbers "1" (white cable) and "20" (black cable) are engraved, and a threaded bolt to which the starter crank is connected to the machine. When assembling, make sure that the connection terminals with the same numbers in the coil box are connected to the terminals of the connection piece on the Dynastart exactly according to the circuit diagram. A carbon brush is therefore located on the inside of the flat track collector of the bell armature. In order to be able to replace the carbon brushes, the armature must be removed from the crankshaft, whereupon the carbon holders are easily accessible. The entire machine is covered with a protective cap, on which the breaker is located in the middle.
The starter has a torque of 3.2 mkg in conjunction with a 6-volt battery with a capacity of 30 amps per hour.
3. The breaker:
The breaker is located in the middle of the protective cap and is intended to interrupt the current and trigger the ignition spark. Behind the breaker, a centrifugal regulator is mounted on the cam, which automatically adjusts the ignition. When the machine is started, the device automatically regulates the ignition to late in order to achieve a quick and easy start and during operation changes the ignition point to full advance, i.e. 5.5 mm before top dead center. The fiber lifting cam of the breaker must not run completely dry. As a result, a guide tube with a lubricating wick is provided on the side, which must be provided with a few drops of very thin bone oil every 2000 km. The breaker must be checked from time to time to ensure that the opening size is correct (0.5 mm), i.e. the distance between the breaker electrodes must be checked. Severe wear on the breaker or an uneven surface results in poor starting, poor performance and the engine kicking back into the carburetor. Severe wear on the breaker electrodes indicates a defective capacitor.
Fig. 29. Breaker for 1 cylinder DKW motorcycles with battery ignition system: The exact description for checking and adjusting can be found on page 65.
Fig. 30. Battery ignition breaker for 2 cylinder DKW motorcycles. Detailed description for checking and adjusting can be found on page 65.
4. Setting the ignition timing:
First remove the dust cover from the breaker by turning the retaining spring to the right or left. Now loosen the round-head screw (with slot) that firmly connects the breaker housing to the alternator cap with a screwdriver and pull out the breaker housing. Then take a suitable wooden block and clamp it between the centrifugal weights of the automatic ignition timing adjustment using round-nose pliers, with the centrifugal weights at full deflection. The breaker housing is now reinserted. Now loosen the 4 mm hexagon nut in the breaker housing, after which you can turn it completely in the slotted hole guide. After you have removed the exhaust pipe (preferably the right one) from the cylinder, turn the piston to top dead center with the kick-starter. Then make a line mark on the piston surface at the upper edge of the exhaust duct and then turn the piston 5.5 mm against its direction of rotation, i.e. by turning the rear wheel with the 3rd gear engaged (turn it backwards!). Now turn the lower gear Turn the breaker housing to the left or right until the breaker hammer (always with the piston position precisely held) hits the breaker cam. Ignition occurs when the hammer is about 0.05 mm off the anvil. It is therefore advisable to clamp a piece of tissue paper between the hammer and the anvil, which can be pulled out even at this small distance and thus the ignition point is determined as precisely as possible. When the ignition is switched on, a spark must now be generated at the breaker. Now carefully re-fasten the 4 mm hexagon nut that holds the locking pin of the breaker housing, take it out again and remove the wooden block that was clamped between the weights using the round-nose pliers. Now you can firmly reconnect the breaker to the dust cap using the half-round screw.
Adjusting the contact gap: Turn the crankshaft so that the breaker hammer is fully raised and determine the distance between the two contacts. The gap should not be more than 1.5 mm. The gap between the two contacts can be easily adjusted using the movable electrode on the breaker base. If the gap is too small or too large, inconveniences arise due to the ignition not working properly and the breaker electrode material wearing out faster.
5. The switch box:
The switch box is connected to the main cable of the alternator. It is made of strong Bakelite and has a cover that is held in place with a conical screw (can be removed with a screwdriver). The switch box contains the following devices:
- Voltage regulator,
- Reverse current switch,
- 1 or 2 ignition coils,
- the battery and also the machine fuse for single-cylinder engines,
- the main switch with ignition lock,
- the control lamp,
- the connection terminals for cables 3, 1a, 8.1, 5/6, 20, 7 and II for single-cylinder engines, and 1a, 1, 20, I and II for two-cylinder engines. These numbers are also shown on the circuit diagram, so that you can get precise information from the diagram.
- the 40 amp fuses are not browned through,
- the battery fuse (under the reverse current switch) is loose, as is the case with single-cylinder engines, the main machine fuse, which is screwed into the bottom of the control box with a cap,
- the main cables are connected correctly (white cable = code number 1, black cable - code number 20),
- the regulator and reverse current switch are correctly inserted, the bridge is tightened properly and there is no oxide layer at the contact points,
- the ignition coil is properly seated. the high-voltage version must be connected backwards,
- the ignition cables are firmly plugged in,
- the control box has a good ground connection with the mounting bracket,
- the glass filament of the control lamp is still in order, or the lamp has a good connection with the contact points.
This translation remains a work in progress.....
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